Self Drive to Ladakh

Drive route with days

Group

Dimple and I drive from Delhi – Manali – Leh. Kshitiz and Prerna joined us there.

Food

We carried lot of food with us like biscuits, nuts, chips etc. Basic food like Maggi noodles, rice, etc is available at almost all the places in Ladakh. Carry onion, tomato, salt, chat masala, black pepper etc if you want to make the food spicy.

Water

We purchased one 20 L and one 10 L plastics containers from Manali and filled water in them wherever available. Water available may be a problem if not carried enough with you.

Fuel

We carried two 20L plastic containers with us. Better to get them filled at Manali or Srinagar. Many times electricity is not available at your planned filling station. Best is to always carry spare.

Money

Rely only on cash. There are ATMs at Leh. At all other places ensure to carry enough cash.

Sleep

There are basic tents available at almost all the villages. However, after going there I realized that carrying your own tent is the best option. There are camping sites at almost all the places. Though we never used sleeping bags that we carried with us but it is always a good backup plan.

Mode of travel

Self driven Toyota Innova from Avis Delhi. This is THE BEST option. One just needs to be patient on the mountains. There are hardly any incidences reported. The drivers at Ladakh and Himachal side are good and cooperative. They drive fast because they cover those routes daily but they won’t hesitate to step out and help you out. The risk of breakdown is always there but the freedom of self drive at a place like Ladakh clearly wins over this risk. Bottom line is, you won’t die there if the vehicle breaks down. Moreover, the Leh Taxi driver association does not allow any other taxi to go to places that needs Inner Line Permit like Pangong Lake, Tso Moriri, Nubra etc. So you have to hire taxi at leh which was super expensive. Last time I checked the cost for Innova per KM was more than 25 Rs. The self drive vehicle from Avis had a black number plate with yellow text (not the usual yellow number plate). Many times Leh taxi drivers were not sure about black number plate. We were asked once. We told that this is a private vehicle on lease. The local Taxi drivers did not say anything because they did not notice any taxy driver.

Review of Avis, Delhi for Self drive hire

This was my first time of car hire for self drive in India. I sent multiple mails to Avis with numerous queries. Each time the response was prompt and reasonable. I asked that if they have 4x4 available for Ladakh travel. They mentioned that no 4x4 are available but Totota Innova can be used which is not a bad option.

Five days before the travel date I booked the car on website. There was a 25% discount going on which was a big treat. The whole amount was charged in advance on my credit card.

On the day of actual hire, I reached their office at Radisson blue hotel at Mahipalpur, Delhi. The whole process was as smooth as any other country. The executive asked for my riving license and credit card. He blocked Rs 60,000/- on my credit card. I was taken to the car and the fleet manager took me around the car and mentioned some minor existing scratches. He explained me all the documents and the permits. He also explained that cops in some state do no recognize commercial number plate with private driving license. For this purpose, he gave me a photocopy of the rudy from Indian Motor Act which allows this. After explaining all the documents he handed over the keys to me. I was given a phone number to contact in case of any problem. I took the car out.

For the whole journey the exceeded my expectations even at the toughest roads of Rohtang pass and Baralacha La, the car. The car bumper got loose after numerous hits. At leh, the car was taken to the Toyota Service center for basic checkup, wash and air filter cleaning. The driver side window bidding was missing. That was also fixed.

Before returning the car, I again got it washed near Jammu. A clearn car definitely gives a good impression. At the time of return the fleet manager noticed the bumper and chargedmy Rs 1700/- for that which was vert reasonable amount. The blocked amount of Rs 60, 000/- was released on my credit card. The whole experience was very smooth. I would again go to Avis for self drive hire and recommend to others as well.

In the total span of 16 days, the car was driven 3450 KMs. Rs. 41030 were paid to Avis. Rs 12590/- was the fuel expense. The cost per KM was 15.33 which was a very good deal. We had the complete freedom. No driver to give us directions.

Directions

Holux GPS tracker connected to Nokia E63 over blue tooth. The phone has MGMaps installed with offline stored Google road maps. As always, this solution never disappointed me.  The car charger always kept the phone and the GPS on.

Hotel bookings: All done on the spot. Avoid pre booking if you like to talk to local people and exploring around. There is a minor chance that you may not get anything but I already suggested to carry tent.

First Aid

Carry a good first aid kit. We were eating Diamox for a day before we crossed Rohtang pass for 5 days. We were drinking lot of water with Electral powder into it. None of us had any major symptom of AMS. There are very less people at Ladakh. Even they may not have any life support. In case of any problem, first aid is a must.

June 29, Day 1

Bangalore - Delhi

Took SpiceJet flight from Bangalore to Delhi. Reached at 7. It was not the new Terminal 3. The conveyer belt at the old terminal as well as the staff were not in a mood of working. It was already 8 by the time we stepped out of airport. Boarded a shuttle to Terminal 3 and got down at Aero City Metro station. No doubt, the airport Metro is amazing and one can't stop appreciating it. By the end of 20th minute, we were at New Delhi. From there we changed to Delhi Metro, which has a separate station and line. The stations are linked internally. No need to get out and reenter again. From New Delhi we reached Rajiv chow, changed to Noida City center with total time of 60 minutes. From Noida city center we hired at auto to a friends place. Total commute time was 2 hours.

Day 2: 30 June

Delhi – Chandigarh - Kalka

We started the return journey from Noida city center Metro station to Airo City Metro station and reached Hotel Radisson BLU to hire car from AVIS.

1. Rs 60000 were blocked on my card. The transaction happended twice. The person at the desk told me that the second transaction is by mistake and will be reverted back.

2. The took the photocopy of my Driving license and Credit card and me to fill billing address and sign at few place. That was all at the front desk for formalities.

3. I was asked to inspect the car. It was  2011 model Toyota Innova 28000 KM old. The person there explaned me all the documents and explained what to show if cops catch me for driving a commecial vehicle on personal license. The car had minor scratched on bumper which they mentioned on the delivery note. I checked the car again for any other external problem.

4. I was shown a challan which was ending right that day. So I had to buy that on from own. The amount was around Rs 2200 but it would have been great had they done this on their own.

We left Mahipalpur at 1245. From Dhula Kuan turned to ring road towards Azadpur and turned left from there towards Karnal on NH-1. The traffic was slow at ring road and jammed at other places. It took at 2 hours to find smooth flowing highway. The highway till Chandigarh has diversions at multiple places making the average speed to go down.

For lunch we stopped at Pahalwan Dhaba (29.031557; 77.071838)  looking at the number of cars there. Breaking our expentations, the food was tasteless. Next we stopped at Mac Donald's (30.620482, 76.824302) between Ambala and Chandigarh.  After that we stoppped at Paras Down Town square at Zirakpur to buy eatables and gifts for children. From there we drove to Kalka city and halted at Hotel Windcross.

Review of hotel Windcross:
(1013-ZL, Ram Nagar, Chandigarh Shimla National Highway, Kalka, ph: 01733-645555, 657777)

I am totally impressed. The total bill was around Rs 1750/-. That includes unlimited water, room, morning breakfast and tea. The owner (Mr. Satish) is softspoken. His helper is always ready to satisfy your needs. The first room that we saw had some kind of smell. Probably because it was close for many days. We choose another room which gave us comfortable sleep for one night stay at kalka. I would recommed this place. From outside it may not look very attractive but from inside it does the job.

Hotel Windcross - Kalka

Day 3: July 1

Kalka – Karanpur – Baddi – Hindur – Swarghat – Mandi – Aut – Kullu - Manali

After eating delicious Paratha at hotel, we Started from Kalka at 9. I decided the route looking at the GPS. Instead of Chandigarh-Rupnagar-Ghanauli-Nurpur Bedi-Swarghat we took Chandigarh-Kalka-Baddi-Swarghat. The second route was short as per google maps but it took almost double the time. The roads were absent at most of the place. Many palce there were lanslides(31.177265, 76.690406). We had to wait for the cranes to clear the roads. Total countryside and typical remote India hills. It was a different experience. I have never drove in hills nor have seen lanslide from my own eyes. It was a feeler for me. This route should be taken only if one is adventurus to drive.

The hill came down in front of the truck right when I was looking at it. The two machines cleared the way in not more than 20 mins. Very efficient.

Hats off to these workers.

After Swarghat we were in a comfortable speed. Had our lunch at the HP tourism restaurant (31.331938, 76.759071). The food was good. The hotel gives an amazing view of the Gobind Sagar plains and the historic temples at the banks.

Temples at the banks of Gobind Sagar

Gobind Sagar bank

The next halt was for fuel near Mandi and after few KMs for Tea. The Beas river was flowing on one side. We went down to feel the water of the river.

Beas River

Pandoh Dam Reservoir

As time passed, we were getting absorbed into the himalayas.

We were on time but made second not-so-good choice of the day. Instead of taking Manali bypass from Kullu, we took the city road. It was very narrow. Single lane at multiple places. It took way too long but we were able to witness nice locations on the river side and the whole city. There are so many advennture sports vendor around. We saw one hot air balloon and not less than a million white water rafting companies. They all start from one point and end at the same point. There are so many of them so that they have been assigned number like 1 ricky, 2 micky etc.  We witnessed at less till 120.  Though we were able to witness the whole city but it was 8 by the time we reached Manali.

The city of Manali was in a mood of festival. Roads full of cars, mostly from Chandigarh and punjab. Restaurant full of people, stalls over loaded and streets full at if this is the last place on earth. There was no parking or stopping chance. So we turned towards Vashisht. Hotel hollywood there had stinking rooms. Moved further and found a hotel. Almost finalized that one but after enquiring for the rohtang pass permit for non-HP vehicle, the owner asked us to check the city jourist center. So we drove back to the Mall but this time parked the car on the highway.

The tourist center was closed. We took room in the hotel Kunzum, right next to tourist center so that we do not spend time to come here back next morning.
After taking the room, we went for a relax walk on the Mall. It was 12 midnight by the time we came back but there was no sign of shops getting closed or people going to bed. After having some snacks we called the day off with doodh-Jalebi.

Day 4: July 2

Manali – Rohtang Pass - Keylong

We got ready by 8 and had our breakfast(Parathas) at Sagar restaurant (opposite to the tourist information center). Everything was ready but the permit to cross Rohtang Pass for non-HP vehicle number venhicle. DC office is very near to city center. I got the blank form from a photocopy shop, filled it up, went to the 2nd floor and asked the person for the permit. He filled the details in his own permit form and kept my form with him. That was all. We started our drive to Rohtang Pass. The drive was the starting point for the scenic beauty. Soon the beauty turned into a 6 hour long traffic jam. The jam was mainly due to day tourist interested to visit Rohtang Pass to see snow.

The Mall, Manali

Breakfast Restaurant at the Mall, Manali

Way to Rohtang Pass - unlimited options for Paragliding

Killing time at the Jam

All transport options are open for 6 hour traffic jam

Fully loaded bikers to Ladakh

We met 2 guys (Tejinder and Preet) from Chandigarh. They were also going to Leh in their Mahindra Thar.  As hours passed, cars started turning back.  Around 3 the temperature went down and there was mist all over us but still the traffic was not moving. Next day was Tuesday, closing day for Rohtang pass. There was no option of turning back. We were prepared to sleep in the car. As time passed, almost all the day tourist vehicles turned back. We moved further in the vacant slots. Tejinder and Preet helped us a lot. They were surprised and concerned that just a couple decided to take this infamous route. Now the traffic started flowing inch by inch. Soon we came to the single lane section which was the bottle neck of whole jam. There was mud mixed with water and stones. No one knew what is under it. Around 50 truck and taxi drivers were throwing their own ideas on how to cross it. There was a local taxi number Alto in front of me. He managed to cross the section somehow. It was my turn now. Gear 1, constant speed of 20 so that nothing can stop me now and I moved the car further. The car was moving like a snake with hundreds of stones hitting the under body. This was probably a welcome for us from the adventurous roads of Ladakh.

We moved to the Rohtang pass but could not afford stopping there more than 10 minutes.

Tejinder, Preet and Paresh

Everyone is crazy under the fall on the road

Evening tea and Maggi after crossing the Rohtang Pass

 The descend started on the other side. The terrain started changing. We saw the road to Kaza into the spiti valley. We will be on this route sometime in future.  The road around Sissu to good enough to do 90 kmph but scenic enough to slow down.

The Lahaul Valley - around Sissu - Sunset on one end and Moon rise on the other end

Our destination for the day was Keylong. The road was a dirt track at almost all the places. We managed to reach Keylong at 9:30 PM. Tejinder and Preet were helpful. We stayed at a hotel near the bus stand. Per night cost was 1000/- after bargain.

Day 5: July 3

Keylong – Darcha – Deepak Tal – Baralach La – Sarchu – Gata Loops – Lachunglang La – Pang

Morning at Keylong

From Keylong to Jispa

Jispa

Deepak Tal

On Route to Baralacha La

Baralacha La

Day started with the serene morning of Keylong. The day was a full drive day amongst the heaven. Due to traffic jam at Rohtang pass we could not go beyond Kelong. So today we had to stay at Pang. Crossing TaglangLa during eveing hours is too much of risk. At Pang we again met Tejinder and Preet. They hired a whole tent with around 6 beds at Rs 350. We hired 2 beds at a shared tent accommodation. We talked to many people from different parts of world. Everyone had something special to share.

Dhaba after crossing Baralacha La

Inside the Dhaba ensure full comfort

All that you need at that place

Camp Restaurant after coming down from Baralacha La - All that you need - From toilet paper to Pan Masala

The view from the temporary Dhaba

Toilet only for urgent Dhaba Customer. How do they ensure that the customer is under urgency?

Camps at Sarchu

Nature is the best artist

Natural Carvings

What made these carvings?

At top of Gata Loops

Needed some break after crossing Gata Loops

Amongst the most creative section of the Manali Leh Highway

The door for the winds made by the winds

The original palace designs

Lords left Ladakh and the palaces turned to ashes

Hard to believe that no human touched these

Night Stay at Pang. The tents have Dhaba outside and dorm inside with around 10 beds in a tent. Costs Rs 100/- per person per night

It was hard to take a sleep at this height. Less oxygen and cold was not a great combination at 4600m. We were having enough water and electral along with Diamox. I was keeping my fingers crossed for the next morning.

Day 6: July 4

Pang – Murray Planes – Taglang La – Upshi - Leh

Good morning Murray planes

We left Pang early morning at 5:30. Crossed Murray planes and Taglang La.

Morning shades at Murray planes

The infinite road at Murray planes

Tea Stall at Taglang La. Next time we came to the same place after 5 day, it was painted white

Taglang La - Highest point on Manali Leh Highway

The approach to Taglang La

Finally to Indus Valley

 At Debring we asked a local nomad for diesel. He gave us 20L for Rs 1200. That was around Rs 20 extra per liter. It was a great help for us in the middle of desert. Moving ahead we had the first view of Indus Valley. Coming from the desert for last 350KM it was a treat for eyes to see greenery around the river. There was bridge on the Indus river. Just before that we were asked to pay Green Tax for Rs 300/-. After crossing the bridge, a check post checked the receipt and asked for a tip of Rs 50/- also. We were charged another Rs50/- for some tax. The road from Upshi till Leh is good and one can easily do 70-80 KMPH. There are speed restrictions due to Army area but no one seems to follow that.

We reached Leh Airport at 1230. There was no one and the gatess were closed. We were told that after there are only morning flights from Leh Airport and after that the facility is complete closed down for the users. I asked to the security guard at the gate. He gave me card of ‘Ladakh Zanskar  Adventure’ on fort road. We end up wasting 2 hours looking for the hotel was Siddharth hotel.

We were charged Rs 700/- per night per room. The rooms were below average. But for the price tag, I feel the deal was not bad.

Here we met Kshitiz and Prerna. They were tired for the overnight bus journey and early morning flight. We were completely consumed by the three day drive over the Manali-Leh highway.

We took the car for wash, air filter and AC filter cleaning and also got the window glass bidding fixed. Rest of the day was spent in peace by having dinner at Monalisa on fort road and chit chatting.

Day 7: July 5

Leh

After having breakfast at Monalisa, we went to DC office for the Inner line permit. That day was local holiday. The staff was expected to arrive by 2. By that time we explored the Leh market on foot. Came back again at 2. Due to the limited hours of working that day, the crowd pile up was huge.

I had confusion in filling up the form. The space for places to visit was less. I had heard that even if one check post is missing from the form, one cannot cross the whole route. Without taking any chances, I wrote names of all the villages from Nubra valley to Pangong Lake via Wari La route and from Pangong Lake to Tso Moriri via route. The problematic thing is even the person sitting at the desk will not answer your queries. No agent or local knows the exact details. The best approach is to write everything. At the time of final permission the officer will cross out the places which are not allowed to you. Sadly for us, Wari La as well as Noma route was denied.

This was an unexpected thing for our plan. But did not get permission even after asking again.

I met a cycling group from Banaglore. They got concerned after knowing that these two direct routes are not being allowed. I could understand their concern because we were on car but they had their muscles pushing their cycles.

The whole process of ILP looks complex but the staff is very polite and helpful. The only caveat is you need to work in their style. Do not try to suggest them what should they do. Just fill the form and hand over to the first person. He will tell you next what to do. The next person will tell you what to do next and so on. For Leh to Nubra valley write just Nubra valley. For Leh to Pangong write just Pangong. For Leh to Tso Moriri write just Tso Moriri. For direct routes, write all the villages in between. If now allowed, the villages will be crossed.

Permit for 4 people for 6 days cost us Rs 1380/-.
Per day charge per person
for Environment Fee: 200/-
One time Red Cross fee: 20/-
Wildlife Protection per day: 20/-

For 4 people for 6 days= 200x4 + 20x4 + 20x4x6 =  1360/-

 After taking the permit we went to market for lunch.

Leh City - Children learning archery

Leh Polo ground with Palace at back

Leh Market

Leh Market

Shopping at Leh

After that we visited Nyamgyal Tsemo castle. This place provides the best view of the Leh city.



Then we went to shanti Stupa. There we got chance to get our photographs in Ladakhi dresses.

From there we went to Sindhu ghat.

Then to Shey Monastery.

And finally to thicksey Monastery which was closed by the time we reached there.

We came back to hotel, had our dinner and slept.

Namgyal Tsemo Palace

Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa

Ladakhi attire and the associated nautanki

The Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa

Leh from the Shanti Stupa

Leh City from Shanti Stupa

Sindhu Ghat

Sunset at Sindhu Ghat

Buddha at the Shey Gompa

Shey Gompa view

Day 8: July 6

Leh – Khardung La – Deskit - Hunder

We got up early and started at 0640 for Nubra valley. South Pullu is the first land mark. We were among the first cars on that route that day. There was no one around. The road till south pullu is good. It took another an hour to reach the famous Khardung La. It gives a great feeling to be at the so called highest motorable road of the world. After taking enough photograpgs we started our descend to Khardung village.

South Pullu - On route to Khardung La

Snow at Khardung La

Khuardung La top - So called highest motorable road of the world - 5359m

Colonel - Kshitiz - Prerna - Dimple - Solanki Ji - Paresh

Sainikon ke liye Chai free at Khardung La

Khardung La top

Lunch point while coming down from Khardung La

The scenic beauty around Khardung village

Stream going out of Khardung and going to Nubra river

First view of the Nubra valley

Nubra Valley

The multi colored rocks of Nubra

Road to Deskit from the Nubra river valley

Our Travel companion with the dragon at the hill

The Nubra Sand Dunes

Mirror Reflections at the Nubra

New Deskit Gompa

New Deskit Gompa

Old Deskit Gompa

Swiss tent stay at Hunder - Rs 1000/- per night

Came ride spot at Hunder

Hunder- contrast is just 50 m away there are sand dunes

Finally on the famous double humped camels

The humps of this kid are yet to be fully grown

Happy kids are getting gifts

The sand dunes view at Hunder

Swiss tents at Hunder from Inside

After the khurdung village, we had the first view of the Nubra valley which is very different from Indua valley. Nubra valley is more desert and very pale. We reached deskit and then to hunder. Just before hunder on can have an amazing view of the sand dunes. We saw a stream flowing through the came ride section. There were very few people around. All four of us jumped in the water. It was very refreshing

We hired swiss tents at Sand Dune Leisure Camp at Hunder. Charge was Rs 1000/- per night per tent after negotiation. to reach this place, take left on the T-junction where you take right for the camel ride.
We had our lunch and went for double dump camel ride by 5. The day ended with GodFather beer, peanuts and chit chatting.

Day 9: July 7

Hunder – Deskit – Khardung La – Leh – Karu – Upshi – Kumdok – Kere – Chumathang

It was going to be a long driving day. Started from Hunder around 8. Drove non-stop till Khardung village and then stopped for breakfast. From there to North Pullu and then to Khardung La. It was around 11 by the time we reached at top. This time there was a huge crowd at the pass. Without spending much time there, we descended to Leh. At Leh, we had our breakfast at Monalisa restaurant and then started to drive towards Pangong Lake. On the route we purchased some fruits and vegetables.

As soon as we took the left turn at Karu, the check post officer stopped us. There was major land slide at Chang La and the Pangong Lake was cut off. There was a truck driver returning from Chang La and he confirmed the same thing. There were many day trip taxi drivers. They were disappointed as we were. As per reports, the land slide was major and it would take around 7 days to clear it. After discussing for 10 minutes, we decided to drive to Tso Moriri.

At Upshi, we made an entry at the police check post and showed the ILP. I offered Rs 50/- to the officer but he denied from taking it.

From upshi our drive went into the depth of Indus valley. It was dark by the time we reach Chumthang. We saw 2 hotels on the mail road but both of them were booked. The person at the hotel directed us to the village. There was a bug house. The landlady welcome us and showed us the rooms. It was a very nice home stay. There was also a camping site a Chumthang near the hot water springs which can be used if you have your own tent. I noticed a solo motor bike rider camping and cooking there.

Son of the Dhawa owner

Return route to Khardung La

Jumped on the snow

Played with the stay

On way to Chumathang

After booking the home stay we came back to restaurant and had dinner along with Godfather beer. Following that we went for a walk on the river bank. This was the perfect ending for the day.

Day 10: July 8

Chumathang – Sumdo – Karzok (Tso Moriri)

The day started with the lovely morning in Chumthang. We got chance to talk to the family members. We were impressed by the hospitality. That was the only day when I did over eating over the breakfast including 3 cups of butter tea. The lady told us insight about the region. She also showed us the green house that they maintain to grow vegetables during winters.

Our Home stay at Chumathang

Our host at Chumathang

The family of the Homestay owner

I had the most heavy breakfast at Chumathang. Thanks to Dolma, the host at home stay

The perfect companion

Kyagar Tso - On route to Tso Moriri

Tso Moriri

Korzok

Party Time

The drive started from Chumthang to Tso moriri. We took a right turn over the bridge on Indus river before Mahe. From there we drive towards Sumdo and took the left. Road till Kyagar Tso is fine but after that for next 23 KMs till Karzok village there is no road. There are many nomads at this area with their sheeps and yaks.

The view of the Tso Moriri lake is breath taking. The ITBP checked our permits at the karzok village and then we entered to find our accommodation. There are swiss tents which are expensive (2500/-) and were all booked. We went further down to find some more tents but they were also charging 1400/- with best bargain. To us, it was not worth it. We found an old house called Montek guest house near the Monastery. The owner charged us 600/- per room per night. We paid him advance, bough beer and drove further down crossing the stream to reach near the shore. We had the perfect lake side party that evening. After having delicious ‘Aloo ki sabzee’ we settled in our beds.

Day 11: July 9

Korzok – Sumdo – Tso Kar – Taglang La – Upshi – Karu – Leh - Nimmo

After getting up the in the morning we used the shared bathrooms. The owner was very hard working. He carried at least 20 buckets of water from the stream to the first floor. He kept the water for boiling at his stove. He was trying his best to make his guest happy but it was bad to see a girl shouting at him for not proving enough hot water. I do not understand that why do people come to such places if they want all kind of luxury in their lives. They should go to resorts or better stick to their homes. The owner never responded back and smiling all the time. Still the girl was in no mood of cooling down. I was able to see a clear difference between the rude and the great people.

Return from Tso Moriri - No road for 23 KM

The Ladakh Horse - famous for their strength - They make fun of the kashmir horses

The bikers from Tso moriri - check out the blue reflection of the sky in the mirror

Tso Kar - less water but the most vibrant colored lake

The limited wild life - For 50 KMs there was no passing by vehicle - The Karzok - Sumdo - Tso Kar - Taglang La route is less used as compared to the Karzok - Sumdo - Chumathang - Upshi route. I suggest to take one to go and other to return

The Magnetic Hill

The Magnetic Hill

We had our breakfast at the tent restaurant and the started our drive back. This time we took left from Sumdo village. This route took us to Tso Kar and then joined the Manali-Leh highway ahead of Murray planes. We crossed Taglang La once again and then had our lunch at Rumste. From Rumste we drive to Karu to enquire about the Pangong Lake. The Changa La land slide was still not fixed. So we drive back to Leh where we stopped some time for making phone calls. From Leh we drive on the Srinagar highway towards Kargil. Soon we came across the famous Magnetic hill. I am not sure the phenomenon works but the winds at the place were very powerful. Also, the view on one end of the road was giving a feeling as if the road is going to end if the hill.

We drive further to the next village, Nimmo. Found a very nice newly opened hotel called Hotel Takshos. We had not-chilled beer and heavy food. The day ended in peaceful sleep.

Day 12: July 10

Nimmo – Fotu La – Kargil – Drass

After settling down bills at Nimmo, we started our drive towards Kargil. The road is good in sections. There are some famous spots on the route. But we took only necessary stops.

Morning life at Nimmo

River Rafting at Indus and Zanskar- I heard there are multi - day rafting tours. You start from one place, halt for lunch start again and then halt for the night. Camp at the bank, prepare your own food etc. Next morning you start again. This goes for 3-4 day. I want to do this next time

Sangam - Indus river in red joining Zansakar river in yellow. Due to the force of Zanskar river the water in Indus flows in opposite direction.

Nimmo Town

Indus

Leh Kargil Highway

Leh Kargil Highway

Blast and clearance on the Leh Kaegil Highway

The Leh Kargil Highway

Town on the Leh - Kargil Highway

Kargil Town

We had our lunch at a Dhaba on Fotu La. The road was still ok but as we approach Kargil, the road was no better than the Manali-Leh highway. This reduced our speed. It was evening by the time we touch the famous war town of Kargil. The National Highway – 1 passes very close to border. Some sections of the road is protected by huge walls which is directly visible from Pakistan. Army built these walls during the 2000 Kargil war time. We were driving further along ther Shingo river which was flowing with a great force as if the whole rage of the soldiers on this side of the border is being sent to the soldiers on the other side.

It was getting dark and the road was not getting better. Then we met a traffic jam where the army asked us to take our car off road. We met a guy there from Delhi who was driving alone. It was nice to find people like these. We drove till drass and found that almost every accommodation was booked except some very basic rooms at Hotel City View next to the tourist bungalow. After eating dinner at the restaurant of the same hotel we got lost in the dreams at our rooms.

Day 13: July 11

Drass – Zoji La – Sonamarg - Gulmarg

We started our drive from Drass around 8 after having breakfast at local shops. The road was still bad. Few sections were ok but that did not make much difference. I was thinking that Manali-Leh highway is unnecessarily got bad reviews. At least there is no traffic on that road. You do not need to care about reckless drivers. You can stop wherever you want and there are no people to pollute your view or fun.

ZoJi La

The Amarnath Yatra base camp - Baltal from Zoji La

Army Convey at Zoji La

Glacier at Sonamarg

Sonamarg

Kashmiri Horse

Sunset at Gulmarg

We found an Army convey moving with us. We were lucky enough to overtake that convey by the time we reach Zojila. All traffic coming in opposite direction was stopped for the convey. We crossed the pass and noticed zillions of tents at Baltal for the Amarnath yatra pilgrims.

The next stop was at Sonamarg. We stopped there and hired horses to go to the Thajwas glacier. The view was awesome but the ice was dirty and muddy. It was not a great time to be there. But still we had fun. While coming down we decided to walk instead of riding the horse.

Our drive started again till a Dhaba on route for lunch. The road from here was good and actually looking like a National highway. We reached Srinagar and turned towards Gulmarg. It was 6 by the time we reached top. It was a good time to enter Gulmarg. All the traffic was coming down. There was no crowd nor pony owners to stop us from taking our car inside. We went straight to the JKTDC tourist huts. Manager sent Mr. Ghulam with us to show the huts. We were disappoted to see the huts. Looks like these huts are not maintained any more. Also, the place looks very expensive due to being very famous among Indian tourists. Finally we settled down at Hotel Green Park for Rs 1500/- per night per room. We went for a walk, had our dinner at the JKTDC restaurant and came back for sleep.

Day 14: July 12

Gulmarg - Srinagar

Next day we got up early. We had heard many stories about the rush at Gondola and none of that was wrong. At 9 in the morning there was huge crowd at the Gondola. The people at the window were taking long time to dispense tickets. Prerna and Dimple took advantage of a separate ladies queue and got tickets from there. We walked towards the gondola and got amazed by looking at the crowd. Rs 800/- per person is definitely overpriced amount. But the Gondola had a long queue which clearly proves that there are lot of people and all these people have lot of money. Without any further analysis we jumped on the Gondola and reached the first stage top. From there we got on the second stage and reach the top where there was some snow left. We walked multiple times on the top and came down twice on the sledge. It was good fun.

Gulmarg

Gulmarg Flowers

Gulmarg Flowers

Gulmarg Flowers

Gulmarg Flowers

Skiing at Gulmarg

Skiing at Gulmarg

The Gulmarg Top - Local Guides make stories that the hills belong to Pakistan. Good way to convince tourists to come to the top and then take sledge to go down.

Gulmarg Top with the Indian Army

Sledge ride at Gulmarg

The guides there are experts in spreading rumors. They were telling tourist that the Line of Control is on the other side of the hill. People got excited and walked on the hill top with the sledge and skiing vendors. We met two soldiers from Army. They told us many stories and got concerned when we took the photographs. They requested not to release the snaps to anymore. Looks like these guys want to keep a mile distance from media. After having enough fun we came down from Gondola and had our lunch at the fast food restaurant of Hotel Hill Top. That was our end of our time at Gulmarg.

The drive to  Srinagar started. The city welcome us with 2 hour long traffic jam. Finally we made to the Dal lake. We drive around the lake on the Lake Shore road. The sun was setting on the other end. The scene compensated for the last two hours that we had spent being stuck in traffic jam on the roads. We asked a cop for the house boats. He mentioned that it is hard to get any vacancy at Dal lake without prior booking. We went to Nageen lake. The very first house boast that I enquired quoted Rs 1800/- per room. The final bill with service charge caqme out to be 4200/- but still it was a very good deal. The house boat had amazing interiors with two bed rooms, one kitchen, one dinning room, one living room with TV, a balcony and a terrace. Both the bed rooms had attached bathrooms with a bath tub and a dressing room. Moreover the Ngeen lake was very peaceful and a nice view of the lake from the bed room.

The son (Mr. Jahangir) of the owner (Mr. Mushtaq) told us many interesting things about the environment and people at Kashmir. He told us that how Indian media loves to make stories about kashmir to increase their TRP. He told us that how separatist leader made people fool. He told us the changing conditions in valley. Overall he was a nice person to talk. He helped us to a nearby restaurant where we had our dinner before lying ourselves on the comfortable beds of the house boat.

Day 15: July 13

Srinagar – Anantnag – Udhampur – Jammu - Samba

Next morning Ksitiz and Prerna decide to take Shikara ride followed by Mughal Gardens followed by Shankaracharya temple. Dimple and I decided to stay back at house boat and relax and feel the whole environment. Right in the morning jewelers, clothes sellers, flower sellers et all started to come to the house boast on their boats to sell the things. It was fun to look and talk to these people. It was a typical movie scene.

Nageen Lake

Nageen Lake

House Boat - Nageen Lake

Nageen Lake - Nice Flower Man

Nageen Lake

Nageen Lake

Nageen Lake

Nageen Lake

Nageen Lake

Nageen Lake

Nageen Lake

Thats my new profession

Shikara at Nageen Lake

House Boat Ritz at Nageen Lake

House Boat Ritz at Nageen Lake

House Boat Ritz at Nageen Lake

Mr. Mushtaq - our host at House Boat Rite - very interesting person to talk to - Nageen Lake, Srinagar

After that we went for a  relaxed shikara ride. Only after sitting on a shikara I could feel the comfort of it. It is very different from a normal boat ride. The only noise that you get it either of birds or of the water being pushed from the raft. There were lotus and lilies all around us. I had never seen so many of them around me.

After coming back from the Shikara ride I ended us in a long and interesting chat with the owner of house boat, Mr. Mushtaq. He shared his experience about India, Kashmir and other countries. He had travelled all over country 30 years back. He mentioned that how Kashmir youth were spoiled by the power of gun and how things are changing now. The government gave jobs to youth in police and Army. For the rest, interest free loan were given to open business. He mentioned that the sellers that came in the morning were jobless gang members till last year. Now after having a job they are as good as any good citizen. He mentioned that how Kashmiri people are treated when they step out. As per him, TV and internet changed the mind of Kashmir. They realized that when a kid at Delhi can have all the fun then why can’t they. I found Mr. Mushtaq a very balanced person who was working hard and had no problem in making tea of lifting utensils of people of half of his age. Always appreciate people like him.

After visiting Kashmir I totally agree that this is really heaven on Earth. But heaven is the place for Gods not for humans like us. The problem with Kashmir (and other scenic places) is that there are so many people around dumping all kinds of wastes at all kinds of places. For example, we saw the JKTDC tourist bungalow. They were eye catching but after looking at them I noticed that all the garbage from them is being dumped at the back side of the bunglow. Believe me, all the nostalgia came down. Then we went for a walk to the Chuldren park at the Gulmarg. It also has a lake inside. The grass was carefully levelled to give a perfect view. But again there were multiple bunches of garbage. Must be left by the people who came here to enjoy it. I am not commenting here this culture of ours but personally, I cannot ignore this and cannot rate a place high. This is something like you take two pegs and then forced to take a shower. Then again a peg and then again a shower. Will you get high? At Ladakh, the culture is amazing. Even at the most remote location, people have made good toilets. They have dig a deep ditch and use that for dumping everything. They use sand for flushing where water is not available. Once that gets filled, they dig a new ditch. Plastic is not visible anywhere in the market. The waste from the restaurant is carefully packed in bags and disposed. Rarely you see on the remote roads are waste mineral bottles and uncle chips empty packet, left by the careless tourists there.

I know there are problems in the system but I did my bit. Even a paper wrapper used by any of us for the whole trip was disposed off near Patahnkot at the designated spot. We had two full covers full of garbage till the end of our trip. The Restaurant at the highway to Manali had dumped all its garbage into the river. I did not dump my garbage at the trash can of these Restaurant. I it is not an extra effort nor a ego issue that I carry my waste with me. I hope this culture changes and system also improves so that the tag line of "Heaven on Earth" really holds true..

Our drive from Srinagar started with lunch on route. The drive was with minimal stops. By the night we reached Patnitop.

At Patnitop instead of stopping overnight we started driving down. This was the most risky drive of the whole trip. I made enough attempt to find the bypass road from Udhampur to Mansar. The GPS was showing there was a road right where we were standing but in the dark night I was not able to make out. Without taking chances, I took the road towards Jammu. The Road till Jammu was full of diversions with truck drivers driving as if they own the road. There were turns all over. Soon I noticed that the fuel is almost over. This was the time when 15L stock diesel helped us out. The drive continued till the next fuel station. Kshitiz decided to stop overnight. I found a guest house which was 50 KMs from Pathankot. Finally slept at 4.

Day 16: July 14

Samba – Pathankot – Jalandhar – Ludhiana – Ambala - Delhi

Next day morning I took that car for wash and cleaning to a nearby car clinic. The drive started at around 11. We had our lunch at a typical Punjabi Dhaba. The drive further had minimal stops. We had our dinner at Green savoy near Ambala. It was 9 by the time we started from there. Post that we has a non-stop drive till Bikaner house New Delhi. It was 11:45 when we reached there. Ksitiz and Prerna boarded the Volvo to Jaipur.

Dimple and I drove to Mahipalpur to our booked hotel Delhi Aero City.

Day 17: July 15

Delhi – Bangalore

Got up late in the morning. Had breakfast at the hotel. Returned the car to Avis. We had plans to take Airport Metro to go to the main city and visit Red Fort. We were disappointed to see that the metro was shut down for maintenance. We roamed around to many malls to find a movie ticket. Unfortunately, all the shows were house full.

Finally we came to airport. The flight was further delay by 1 hour. The flight reached Bangalore by 12 midnight. It was 2:30 by the time I got lost in the dreams again.